“I am taking root in each space in which I begin to commit myself. “A part of me is starting to be there.”
Raíces Collection Interview with Astrid Muñoz
By Gaby Ratner
What would you say to a person who approaches Curatoria for the first time?
Curatoria is a fashion brand that seeks to unite craftsmanship with contemporary design. Our mission is to create a positive social impact in the communities we work with, and preserve Latin American cultural heritage.
For us the new luxury is handmade. That human energy that is generated when garments are made is transmitted in that textile that carries the value of those ancestral techniques.
What is working at Curatoria like behind closed doors?
It all starts with an idea of mine, whether it's something I want to do or something I want to wear. At the same time, we are seeing what each community and each artisan does to combine that talent, with those designs that we think of.
We have a Lab team made up of designers. We start from the conceptual, and then carry out research, transfer those ideas to moodboards, evaluate what is needed, and draw on different aesthetic perspectives. We select what typologies and designs will make up the collection, and we begin to test everything from molding to textiles, always placing emphasis on quality, materials and artisanal techniques.
We come from being curators, to creating our own brand, and artisanal design has other times that are essential to understand and respect.
What is that search like and starting to work with the communities?
It is a constant challenge that fills me with learning.
Our productive capacity lies in the people, and it is a work that is carried out very closely with each community. So that bond that is built is key. For me, talking to each artisan is exciting, I like to understand how they work with each material, know the history behind each process, the times. They are passionate people who make you feel that emotion for what they do.
They are bonds that are built little by little based on trust. That's where the human part comes in and that connection that is generated.
This first collection is called Raíces. What inspired you, and what is your connection with your own roots?
Because of my work as a model I have traveled a lot and have lived in different cities. Then I spent 4 years in Mexico in Tulum, working as a photographer, and then when I met my husband I settled in Argentina. In each place I put down roots, creating emotional ties and feeling part of those cultures.
After my baby was born I put down roots in this country, and through Curatoria I am rooted in protecting and enjoying it. I am crossed by different roots. Those from my native Puerto Rico undoubtedly make up a large part of who I am.
So I am rooting in each space in which I begin to commit. A part of me is starting to be there.
The roots are like that fabric, that we unite cultures, sharing moments, life.
Roots: the collection
As for this first collection, I was mainly inspired by the people I met in northern Argentina. The creative processes in me involve a lot of intuition, curiosity and being close to people.
I went to Jujuy because I was interested in Andean fabrics, meeting weavers, embroiderers, and having that experience with them who are my team. The north is pure inspiration. The color of the mountains, the adobe, I love deserts. And Raíces talks about that.
That fusion between the native taken to luxury. Contemporary design inspired by the landscape. They are unique pieces made by hand, one by one. There are ruanas, ponchos, vests, skirts, sweaters with geometric patterns and symbols of the native peoples.
We work with chaguar fiber, and llama and merino wool. Loom fabrics, crochet, and exclusive tailoring designs reminiscent of gaucho. I am fascinated by rituality and I took the figure of the gaucho because of their respect for the animal and how they prepare to dress, how they are in every detail that makes up their identity. We also develop silver jewelry made by top-class goldsmiths. A line of Creole silverware that brings elements of nature such as flowers and feathers.
Since you created Curatoria, do you feel that your own purchasing habits have changed?
There is something that has been changing for a long time within fashion, and that logically extends to other areas. There is much more conscious consumption, prioritizing above all the quality, durability and timelessness of the garments. I'm sorry for comments from friends, from clients, in the specialized press.I was always passionate about artisanal design, exploring when dressing. But without a doubt I changed my consumption even more. I am no longer attracted to anything mass-produced, nor to enter a store that is full of things that I see all the same and I even begin to feel dazed.
I have always bought these objects that give me energy, and it is the change why I continue to build through Curatoria.